Nose to Tail Eating

 Above: Chicharron, Radish, and Dandelion Green Salad paired with a Pinot Grigio  Above: Butter Beans with crushed Tomatoes and Roasted Pork Belly, Beef Bone Marrow with Sweet Cream Butter and Grilled Bread, and Roasted Pigs Head paired with a Beaujolais. Above: Fried smelt with a Garlic Aioli.  

I ran into the very lovely and inspiring food writer Melissa Clark last night and she graciously reminded me that I had not posted a single thing in about a year, and where had the blog gone? The answer is this: I've had an absolutely insane travel schedule and a thumping great workload which have put me on hiatus from keeping my blog up to date this past year, and it's true, it's been neglected and I'm truly sorry. But New Years' resolutions aside (does anyone make those anymore? And besides... Eek, it's March, so forget that idea!) I've resolved to keep my site up to date with food imagery, tips and cool food ideas and great talent that inspires me, on a much more regular basis. Let's toast to that!

In that vein, here is a recent shoot from Photographer Justin Walker. It's inspired by Fergus Henderson’s restaurant: St John, in London. Chef Jay Wolman, who works at Marlow and Sons & Diner, here in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, created a memorable Winter Feast celebrating Nose-(or head!) to-tail eating, that involved crispy pig skin, beans and wonderful bone marrow. Inspired from Fergus' 2013 book, which is not entirely a new concept, but certainly a reminder of the continued importance of eating the whole animal, and looking for ways to wrestle with the ugly bits, to ultimately not waste a single piece.

Enjoy!

Food: Chef Jay Wolman. Styling by Kaitlyn Du Ross. Photography: Justin Walker.

Follow them on Instagram: Jay Wolman @the_white_bison Justin Walker @behindthedawn Kaitlyn Du Ross @babethebluebox

Justin Walker is a commercial and fine-art photographer based in Brooklyn, NY. He specializes in food, travel, and conceptual still-life photography. A native of Durango, Colorado, he grew up hunting, fishing, camping, snowboarding, and spending most of his waking hours outdoors. His childhood always involved a family adventure in the making; from commercial salmon and halibut fishing in Alaska to ranching in southwestern Colorado. The natural world is a foundation of inspiration in much of his work. He now splits his time in between Brooklyn, NY and the Catskill Mountains. With a background in graphic design, his photographic style encompasses a similar clean cut graphic aesthetic.

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Want to see my most recent work? I now have a separate section devoted to just this. Click Here. Or on the page tab at the top marked 'Recent Work.'

A (Pre-Hurricane) Fall Dinner, in the Country

Cheese, and Pickled Garlic Scapes

Tucked under the eve of the house, light fading, and amid swirling winds from the on-coming Hurricane, we set up our Fall feast.

Black Kale (Cavalo Nero) in Anchovy Sauce with Crunchy Breadcrumbs

Cheeses, Pickled Garlic Scapes, Cocoa Pears Chips, Whole Cracked Walnuts.

Dry-Brined Roast Chicken with Lemon, Garlic and Shallots

Scott Peacock's Classic Buttermilk Biscuits

Luscious Walnut Caramel Tart and (below) Rustic Apple Tart

Adopt the pace of nature: her secret is patience. ~Ralph Waldo Emerson

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The day before Hurricane Sandy, we all went up to the country, and we brought along gifts.

The countryside's haunting, unassuming beauty always surprises me, and while there is nothing wrong with the city, in the country I can breathe easier, there's a slower pace, and I can stop, take a moment, and not rush at all.

Kaitlyn Du Ross brought up a stack of beautiful linens, some knitted throws, and her squat, fawn-colored dishes, overflowed. Anna Helm Baxter and I drove up with the food. Her lemon-y, crunchy, roasted chicken was perfect, my sweet potato anna set the oven on fire.

I'd pickled some eggs, too, in ruby-red beet juice, and Anna had made us two pies; a tart, choc-full of walnuts buried deep in a hot caramel sauce and an apple pie, rustic-style, with a free-from dough.

I made biscuits using Scott Peacock's recipe from Kim Severson. The dough was flaky, light. The secret is stabbing it with a flour-dipped fork, repeatedly. Funnily enough that's what makes it rise. In my first batch, I didn't do it, and they were flat, and tough, like circular hockey pucks.

Photographer Justin Walker bought his camera and his axe, and proceeded to make light work of the boughs, and tree limbs that ended up in short stacked little logs. As the winds started to swirl, from the much-to-close Hurricane, Kaitlyn donned a wintery sweater, Justin pulled out a deck of cards and Anna emerged with her feast, and we hunkered down, to eat, almost holding our breaths, waiting for what surely was to come...

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→ A (PRE-HURRICANE) FALL DINNER MENU Cheeses, Pickled Garlic Scapes, Cocoa Pears Chips, Whole Cracked Walnuts. Dry-Brined Roast Chicken with Lemon, Garlic and Shallots Sweet Potato Anna with Port-Soaked Prunes Black Kale (Cavalo Nero) in Anchovy Sauce with Crunchy Breadcrumbs Scott Peacock's Classic Buttermilk Biscuits Rustic Apple Tart Walnut Caramel Tart.

→ RECIPES COCOA PEAR CRISPS From Rivka, at Food52.com, click here to get recipe

SWEET POTATOES ANNA WITH PORT-SOAKED PRUNES From MRSP, at Food52.com, click here to get recipe

SCOTT PEACOCK'S CLASSIC BUTTERMILK BISCUITS From Kim Severson, click here to get the recipe.

DRY-BRINED ROAST CHICKEN with LEMON, GARLIC & SHALLOTS An ingenious idea: "Dry-brining" gives the chicken maximum flavor. From Anna Helm Baxter

"The chicken I added kosher salt (maybe 4 TBSP) and rubbed all over placed in a ziplock for 24 hours. I then dry off the chicken with paper towel and rubbed with softenened butter all over. I re-seasoned, stuffed it with rosemary, thyme, lemon and garlic cloves cut in half through the equator and cooked at 425F for 1 hour, until golden and the juices run clear when a skewer pokes into the thigh."

WALNUT CARAMEL TART Originally from Mary Cadogan at BBC's Good Food, adapted by Anna Helm Baxter.

6oz plain flour 3oz butter, cut into small cubes 2oz caster sugar 1 egg yolk FOR THE FILLING 7oz caster sugar 4oz butter, cut into small pieces 7fl oz whipping cream 7oz shelled walnut halves

Heat oven to 375F. Put the flour in a food processor with the butter and sugar and mix until it forms fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and 1-2 Tbsp cold water and pulse to make a firm dough. Refrigerate for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Have ready a pie dish. Briefly knead the pastry on a lightly floured surface, then roll out to a round about 2 inches larger than your pie pan. Lift on to the pan with the help of your rolling pin, then press into the corners using your finger. Trim and shape dough. Chill for 30 minutes

Fill the pastry case with a round of parchment and baking beans. Blind-bake for 10 minutes, remove the paper and beans and bake for a further 5-10 minutes until the crust looks dry and is very slightly golden.

To make the filling, put the sugar in a large pan with 3 Tbsp cold water. Heat gently, stirring to dissolve the sugar. When the sugar is completely dissolved, increase heat and bubble until the syrup has turned a rich caramel color. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter until it has dissolved, then stir in the cream. Return to the heat and boil hard, stirring until the sauce is thick enough to leave a gap on the base of the pan when you draw your spoon across it. Stir in the walnuts.

Fill the pastry case with the nut mixture, leveling it with a fork. Return to the oven for 8-10 minutes until the filling is bubbling. Allow to cool.

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Photographs: Justin Walker Prop Styling: Kaitlyn Du Ross Food Stylng: Anna Helm Baxter (Art Direction: Dimity Jones)

Birthday Dinner; Cooking from Susan Feniger's Street Food book.

Photographs: (1) Bblackboard in my kitchen. (2) Marinating Chicken Kebabs in Red Peppers, Currants, and Green Olives, (3) Corn Salad (4) Photographer Christopher Testani drinks an Emerald Palmer Gin cocktail. (5) Shrimp with Singapore Ginger Tomato Hot Sauce Dip, (6) Summer Veggie Salad with Basil Ginger Dressing. (7) Prop stylist Kaitlyn du Ross, (8) Peach, Prosciutto and Buffalo Mozzarella Salad in Honey Balsamic Dressing (9) Food Stylist Carrie Purcell (10) Tunisian Chicken Kebabs with Sweet Currants and Green Olives and the Moroccan Carrot Salad with Spicy Lemon Dressing. (11) Jerry Beersdorf, (12) (13) Claire Connors' Orange Infused Olive Oil Cake with fresh fruit. 

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On the occasion of my birthday, I nearly always cook for a crowd. I usually list the ingredients I want to use, and then match it to the amount of people I want to invite. Each ingredient added to the pot, acts as a symbolic "good luck charm" to the particular friend invited.

For the food this year, I was inspired by Susan Feniger's cookbook on Street Food. Susan Feniger is the owner (with co-partner of Mary Sue Milliken) of the well-known Border Grill restaurant in Santa Monica. Susan created this book, inspired by the food she'd eaten on the streets of Nth Africa, Thailand, and Malaysia, etc.

Thanks for all those who came to celebrate with me!

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THE MENU Boiled Shrimp with Singapore Ginger Tomato Hot Sauce Dip From Susan Feniger This was easily the best dish of the night! The sauce is to die for. It's Ketchup-based with brown sugar, Chinese Chile Bean Sauce and lots of fresh Ginger. Click here to get the recipe.  

Tunisian Chicken Kebabs with Sweet Currants and Green Olives From Susan Feniger The pepperdew red peppers combined with sweet currants give these marinated chicken skewers a sweet-n-tangy taste. The marinating process makes sure the chicken comes out really tender, (not dry at all!)    Click here to get the recipe.

Cold Soba Noodle Salad with Dried Shitake Dressing From Susan Feniger, made by food stylist Maggie Ruggiero This noodle salad is great for a crowd. It's not particulary spicy so if there are kids involved they'll happily gobble this one up. Click here to get the recipe.

Moroccan Carrot Salad with Spicy Lemon Dressing From Susan Feniger, made by food stylist Carrie Purcell. Click here to get the recipe.

Summer Veggie Salad with Ginger Basil Pesto Dressing Grilled yellow and green Zucchini, Carrots, Beets, sprinkle with fresh crunchy radishes, cherry Tomatoes and drizzle with a blend of fresh Basil leaves, Garlic, Olive Oil and fresh Ginger.

Peach, Prosciutto and Buffalo Mozzarella in Honey Balsamic Dressing

'No Mayonnaise' Potato Salad Click here to get the recipe.

Emerald Palmers. (Mint and Cucumber Gin Cocktails) From Susan Feniger. These vivid green drinks are best made last minute and handed out as guests arrive. The Gin packs a punch and gets the evening off to a great start. Click here to get the recipe.

Orange infused Olive Oil Cake Made by Claire Connors

------------ To check out the inspiration for the evening which was Susan Feniger's Street Food: Irresistibly Crispy, Creamy, Crunchy, Spicy, Sticky, Sweet Recipes click here.

(Pics Dimity Jones)

Who you calling a Samurai Mama?

From top: (1) Appetizers: Country style Kabocha (Japanese pumpkin and shitake mushrooms simmered in a vegetable dashi broth), Pork Belly Daikon (cooked pork belly with Mirin soy sauce), Tsukemono (assorted homemade pickles). (2) Chef Shige, (3) Ebi Tempura Udon (Udon with shrimp tempura), (4) Kitchen knives, etc. (5) Kinpira (cooked Burdock root, carrots with Sesame Oil and Soy Sauce, (6) Table setting, (7) Udon Sansai (Udon with edible Japanese wild plants and their housemade dashi (broth)). 

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Chef and owner Makoto Suzuki is surprising. At first he's a little wary. Then he arms burst open and gives you an bear-like hug, then he's on the phone, checking in politely with a vendor to make sure everything will be delivered Ok, then his eyes light up as he tells you about his unique Japanese water system. (Kaiki Water), and how passionate he is about making his Dashi (soup broth), from scratch.

But let's get back to the water system, because when you walk into Samurai Mama, on Grand Street in Williamsburg you suspect that there will be sushi, and possibly imported beer, but you do not suspect that the only water you will drink, and the only water that goes into his much coveted Udon soup comes from a filtration system imported from Japan, and is the purest, cleanest water you will ever try in New York.

The restaurant opened in 2010, which as Makoto points out is 150 years from when the Samurai first came to New York. To that end, he's tried to keep the restaurant unaffected by Japanese paraphernalia. There are no typical Japanese screens, no fish tanks, waterfalls or walls that house any embroidered, ceremonial kimono's. The space feels industrial. "Like the first samurai," he says,"they brought nothing with them from Japan, so I wanted to emulate how they would have set up a restaurant 150 years ago, with just themselves." The place is wonderfully low-lit, but if your capable of feeling your way around with some chopsticks you can dig into some of the best Udon around.

It's his handmade dashi and the chemical-free filtered water that make the difference. Each region in Japan has a unique recipe for their Udon. Some prefer a thicker noodle, and each place has a different broth. Makoto's wife Kanako went to udon school, and it's her recipe that they make in the restaurant. She herself is a confessed udon lover. ("She had to have it, every day, so in the end I set up a restaurant to make her happy," says Makoto). Their recipe is part Kushi (the region where his wife is from) and part Eastern Japan (where Makoto is from). His dashi is made by soaking dried shitake mushrooms and konbu (seaweed, imported from Japan) overnight in the Kaiki filtered water. Next day he brings the mixture to 150 degrees (never to the boil, he cautions) with bonita flakes, fish with wing (mackeral) and then they use it the next day. (They never let it sit longer.)

The other secret ingredient on top of the udon is yuzu zest, which they also import from Japan. It gives the soup an indefinable citrus tang. And it's unlike anything I've ever eaten. Try the Udon Sansai which is dashi (broth), noodles, with Japanese edible wild plants (make sure you get a slow-poached egg as well) or pull up a bench at the long beautiful communal table and ask Morgan the manager to recommend something for you, which he will, happily, and it will transport you. But do try the water, regardless, it's worth all the fuss.

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Photo essay by Justin Walker Prop styling by Kaitlyn du Ross

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JUSTIN WALKER is a travel and food photographer based in Brooklyn. A native to Durango, Colorado, he grew up as a bystander to his families adventures; from commercial salmon and halibut fishing in Alaska, to big game hunting on a small ranch in Colorado. 

KAITLYN DU ROSS is Boston bred, Brooklyn made, from the South shore of Boston, Kaitlyn found her way out to Colorado— only to follow her love for the shuffle-and-jive back to the east coast. When she's not jiving, she's styling props.

Makoto Suzuki is the owner of Samurai Mama and also the owner of Bozu.