The Best Citrus Recipes for Winter

So great news; I'm now contributing to ArchetypeMe.com! I have a bi-weekly column called "Dim Some". (My friends all agree; the best name ever for my column). I'll be posting links to interesting food recipes, every second week. Look out for it!

Check out my most recent post here. 

What is Archetype Me? It's a new website that daily, creates new content tailored to your architype. It's fun and it's free. You take the quiz, then get privy to great stories that suit who you are. Check out the site, here.

Three to One: The Best Chicken Liver Mousse Recipe, ever.

THREE TO ONE: A lot of people ask me why I called my blog “Three to One”. It was based on the idea that there are a lot of recipes on the web, and that if you search something simple, like ‘chocolate cake’, for instance, you’ll get a barrage of well meaning and possibly amazing ideas, but how do you know which is the best? How do you know which one will taste great? And which one do you try without wasting money and time on ingredients and cooking? What if someone were to test and take all of those, and reduce them down to just one? Since it seemed, (to me, at least) that recipes usually take three different tacts. I wanted to create a site that was taking the three tacts, and reducing them to one. Thus was born, Three to One… 

THE BEST CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE RECIPE (from MARLOW AND SONS) Marlow and Sons is a restaurant based in South Williamsburg, Brooklyn, that has had Chicken Liver Mousse on it's menu for as long as I can remember. So I decided to spend some time hunting down the recipe, and here it is. I found it in Diner Journal, Issue No. 9 Fall 2008, and Issue No. 14 The Poultry Special Edition 2010. The recipe is from Caroline Fidanza, Ex-Chef of the restaurant and it's truly unique. I've made the recipe three times now, and it really is the best chicken liver mousse I've ever eaten. I love the way the recipe is written too, it's very intuitive, and If you follow it step by step, you can't go wrong. It's perfect for New Year's Eve, or in fact perfect for any gathering.

CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE Serve with plenty of toasted or grilled baguette. Chicken Liver Mousse will hold in the fridge for about a week. 

1 Spanish Onion, sliced 4 Shallots, sliced 6 Cloves of Garlic, sliced 1 pound of Chicken Liver Half a cup of Brandy Unsalted Butter Sherry Vinegar

In a heavy bottomed sauté pan heat one stick (or a quarter pound) of butter until it sizzles. Add the onion, garlic and shallots to the butter. Season well with Salt, turn heat to medium low and allow to slowly and deeply caramelize. Drain the chicken livers through a strainer and then lay them out on paper towels to absorb any blood or moisture. Look over the livers and remove any unpleasant things hanging off them. Season the livers well with Salt and Pepper on both sides. In a separate sauté pan, cook the livers on high heat in a combination of olive oil and butter, about 3 tablespoons of each to start. Cook the livers fast allowing them to brown on the outside but remain pink on the inside. Cook livers in small batches being sure not to overcrowd the pan. Deglaze the pan inbetween batches with sherry vinegar. Transfer the cooked livers and onions to a bowl until everything is all cooked. When the livers are cooked, deglaze the pan with Brandy and then pour the Brandy over the livers and onions. Allow everything to cool.

Note: Don't be afraid to add a lot of butter to the pan to cook the livers and the onions. This is where a lot of the flavor is going to come from. This is not a low-cal, low-fat dish so you may as well make it taste good.

Once the livers and onions are cool but not cold puree them in the food processor. Put everything in at once and let the motor run, you want this to really smooth. Season with sherry vinegar, salt and pepper, tasting over and over again until you don't feel that it can taste any better than it does. Chill.

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To get info on how to visit Marlow and Sons, click here. For info on how to purchase containers of this chicken liver mousse at Marlow and Daughter's (their nearby butcher shop), click here. To get info on chef Caroline Fidanza, who is now running the sandwich shop, "Salty", click here.  To subscribe to the Diner Journal, click here.

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Photograph: Daniel Håkansson, check out his work, here. 

Diner Journal. Issue No. 22. "Town & Country"

From Anna Dunn. Editor-In-Chief of the Diner Journal...

"This journal amounts to the traingulation of a moment. Like trying to hold a bubble in your hand or committing on summer's sunset to memory. This is about longing, to go back to stretch one perfect moment into an eternity, to return to a taste, to stay always with friends as the soft night sifts into the sky. Our lives, in this way, are a series of exquisite losses. Ones we are thankful for.

Orange and blue are the colors of nostalgia, the way a lense catches light or flame spits from the fire, the way a wave reaches for a moment toward the sky. Nostalgia, the word and the sum of all its parts, derives from the Greek word for home and the Homeric word for ache. We are a population of perfect storms forever wanting to be captured and then set free. A photograph never does it. Neither does this Journal."

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The Diner Journal is a quarterly magazine from the folks over at Marlow and Son's restaurant, under restaurateur Andrew Tarlow, and editor in chief, Anna Dunn, and this is the one journal I always buy, no matter what, as they nail it, in every respect. 1. Editorially, it always has a really strong focus; and it's usually themed. (whether it be Fall, Spring, Summer or Winter, etc. They also did a Poultry issue, once, which I have, and their current issue (above) it titled 'Town and Country", which merges images, literature and recipes from the city and the land and 2. The recipes are always from their chefs, or cooks who work for the restaurant, so you know they'll work, and also they are usually something you've never heard of before. You'll want to pore through and bookmark them, and keep turning back to them, time and time again and, 3. the photography and art work are always cutting edge and inspiring  

They're current issue, No. 22. "Town & Country" (with pics above) has recipes such as Grilled Sardines + Eggplant w/ Bone Marrrow Agrodolce, Grilled Corn in Clarified Lobster Butter and a ridiciously easy Smokey Eggplant Dip that I want to make right now.  

The Diner Journal grew out of the creative flow of the restaurant staff working together everyday, and they hope this independent spirit shines through. There's a certain intangibility to the feeling of dining in a restaurant at night, and the journal editors confess, they both hate and treasure; that the sensation is fleeting. Diner Journal was partly created as a print object that hopefully embodies and continues that feeling and mood from the restaurants. The goal was to make every page something that they would want to pass on and save and come back to, which is why they don't have any advertisements.

The themes of each issue are decided organically and their contributor list is too. Many contributors work at their restaurants (Marlow and Sons, Diner, Roman and Reynard), or are people they know professionally in the industry, or are customers, even. The journal gives them the platform to work with different types of writers and creators; from poets and water colorists, to photographers and micro-finance wizards turned cheese-makers. Sometimes when they decide on an article, they can often base the theme of the entire issue around it.

How to get it? The journal is for sale within the cafe at Marlow and Sons, and they can also be bought online at Marlowgoods.com, as well as all over the US and internationally hand picked bookstores. They are also carried at Anthropologie. The diner journal comes out several times a year but if you order a subsription you will get 4 issues. To order the journal or to see their website for a full list of stockists, click here.

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Pic 1: Cover paintings: Blaze Lampert (scales) and Sope Phang (gratin). PIc 2: Steamer illustration by Lars Goran Karlsson

Pic 3: Spit-Roasted Lamb photograph by Julia Gillard.

Pic 4: Braised Squid in Grilled Tomato Sauce by Jenna Ransom

Pic 5: Country photo by Julia Gillard at Blooming Hill Farm

PIc 6: TOC illustration of the map by Tessa Basore and Becky Kirsten Johnson.

The Mast Brothers (For the "Brooklyn Makers" Book)

"Somewhere as a society, we seem to have lost the connection with our makers. This is particularly true in a big city, surrounded by so many busy people, who are just trying to make rent. " —Jennifer Causey

At various times of her life, photographer Jen Causey has wanted to be an archeologist, a doctor, an advertising executive and a make-up artist.

During the process of shooting "Brooklyn Makers" her book, Jennifer had the opportunity to go into the studios of a thriving and inspiring Brooklyn-based artisan community and it was there that she found herself wanting to become a ceramicist, a florist, a baker, and a tie-dyer.

When Jen had the idea for her book she bounced it off some friends, who told her to jump right in, and from there it became a domino effect; While eating at Paulie Gee's (A Greenpoint, Brooklyn pizza haven), she inquired about their interior designer, and found out it was the Haslegrave brothers from hOmE. Then while shooting the Haslegrave brothers, they suggested she shoot their friends Agatha and Erin bakers, at Ovenly (who are known for their cherry cheddar basil scones and spicy bacon caramel corn) and so on. Word of mouth, not social media, is perhaps still, the best source of recommendations, and the best way to build up a community.

When Jen shot the Mast Brothers for the book, (the pics above), she spent the morning in their space and was able to follow the entire chocolate making process (from bean to bar). The Mast Brothers (Rick and Michael) moved from Iowa a decade ago, and started making chocolate just to share with friends. They quickly turned it into a business. The brothers are committed to sustainable methods of producing and sourcing, buying their beans directly from small organic cocao farmers in the Dominican Republic and Central and South America. Each chocolate bar is hand wrapped in gold foil and then a custom paper designed by themselves, their friends, and their employees. Their sense of community extends way beyond their production line too; every day, the entire crew sit down to a family-style meal. Sometimes made themselves, sometimes ordered in.

This book is divided into two regions, North and South Brooklyn and investigates what their various 'makers' are up to. After I reading it, I was inspired, excited and I couldn't wait to begin making something. This book is fascinating—and it's transporting. And it's also important. In my mind, we need to honor, support and get behind our local craftspeople as much as we can. Long live the makers!

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To purchase Jen's book, click here, or click on the link on my homepage where Jen's book is listed as my top 3 favorite Amazon.com book purchases.

To learn more about Jennifer Causey and see her other photography work, click here. Jen is also responsible for the kick-ass blog, "Simply Breakfast". click here to see the blog. 

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JEN CAUSEY: is a food, travel and lifestyle photographer. She was born in the South and grew up playing in creeks and running in the woods. Although she has been residing in Brooklyn for the past 10 years, she is still a Southerner at heart; she will eat grits any time, any day, especially if they are covered in cheese at the Waffle House.

Roy Choi & An Asian Baby Back Ribs Recipe too.

A bright glimmer in an otherwise set of gloomy days here in New York! Great to see the Roy Choi Hawaii story that I designed for the December issue of Food and Wine magazine is on newsstands now.

In terms of the type, I wanted something a little less classic to match the edgy feel of Roy, so I re-drew an old Hawaiian-inspired font, then gradated it, to hopefully give it a retro surf vibe.

Photographer Bobby Fisher shot all the location shots, (the ones above included) and Con Poulos photographed the interior food pics (including the rib shot, above). Anna Last cleverly prop-styled the food pics, using nostalgic Hawaiian postcards, and bright plastic tableware, and Alison Attenborough styled the food.

The story in the magazine was written by Pulitzer Prize-winning author, food critic and Los Angeles Times writer, Jonathan Gold.

The December issue of Food and Wine magazine is out now, chock-full of Holiday recipes, so run out and grab yourself an issue. (Yay for a little bit of sunshine in December!)

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To get the recipe for the Asian Fried and Glazed Baby Back Ribs, (pictured above) click here. 

(Note: I made these ribs last week, and their pretty easy to do, and very tasty! They do need some time to rest in the fridge, so note the total cooking time. I omitted the spicy Sriracha, to make it more kid-friendly and even if you don't live in a very ethnically inspired neighborhood, all the ingredients are pretty standard asian grocery fare and easy enough to find. I actually baked the ribs in the oven, for health reasons, instead of frying them in the oil, and had great results.)

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To subscribe to Food and Wine magazine, click here. 

What I'm obsessed with now: (#369) The Autumn Pudding with Orange Toffee & Caramelized White Chocolate Ice Cream, at Whitehall, NYC

Pastry Chef Ryan Butler takes the comfort desserts, from his childhood, and gives them a modern twist.

My current obsession is his Autumn pudding with Caramelized White Chocolate Ice-cream and Citrus Toffee Sauce. It has ingredients like Orange Juice, Apple Cider, Brown Sugar, Brown Butter, Salt and Pepper, Medjool Dates, plump Sultanas and wonderful chewy Candied Orange Peel (that Ryan hand makes from scratch).

Ryan first soaks the puddings in toffee sauce, then pours more toffee sauce over the top (yes, really!) This pudding, like most of his other desserts uses his signature mix of warm ingredients, mixed with cold. The warm fragrant pudding and hot citrus toffee sauce, mixed with the cold white chocolate ice-cream.

This dessert will be on the menu at Whitehall till mid December, where he's switch it out for a Winter Dessert, so get it while it's hot! (and cold.)

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AUTUMN PUDDING WITH CITRUS TOFFEE SAUCE. Chef Ryan kindly agreed to part with the recipe for his pudding. These make about 12 from a regular size muffin tin. Serve with the best Vanilla ice-cream you can find. 

5 ripe bananas 9 medjool dates , chopped and soaked in boiling water 2 tbs candied orange peel 4 eggs 1 tsp of cinnamon 11/2 cups of sugar 1/4c raisins 2 tsp of baking powder 11/4 cups of vegetable oil

Mash the bananas, add all the liquid ingredients then add all the dry ingredients allow the batter to sit over night. Bake the puddings in prepared molds or muffin tins at 325 for ten minutes or until golden brown. Unmold and soak in the citrus toffee sauce.

Citrus toffee 2 cups orange juice 1 cup apple cider 2 cups dark brown sugar 2 cups butter 1 tbs salt Combine all the ingredients and bring to a boil. Set aside. There will be extra sauce.

PHOTOGRAPH BY LINDA PUGLIESE

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RYAN BUTLER: is a pastry chef responsible for the desserts at Highlands as well as Whitehall restaurants in the New York's West Village. The desserts he does at Highlands are a more pub-style dessert, the ones at Whitehall, are a more composed modern take on classics. To get info on Highlands, click here. To get info on Whitehall, click here.

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LINDA PUGLIESE: is a food photographer and aspiring professional pasta maker. Originally from Annapolis, Maryland, she grew up surrounded by sailboats & picnic tables covered in piles of crabs. Her favorite guilty pleasure, is really good vanilla ice cream with a sprinkle of maldon sea salt on top. She will gladly set an alarm hourly through the night to wake up and stir the ragu in winter and could easily live off yogurt topped with blueberry jam. And some days she does. Click here to check out her work. 

How to Shoot a Wolf (Wolf = Being a Metaphor for Hunger)

HOW TO SHOOT A WOLF (THE VORACITY SERIES): Anna Williams is the photographer behind the "Voracity" Series. The pictures (above) are from one of my favorites of the series, the "How to Shoot a Wolf". Here, an Interview with Anna.

WHAT WAS THE IDEA BEHIND "HOW TO SHOOT A WOLF"? This shoot was inspired by MFK Fisher's book, 'How to Cook a Wolf. "The "Wolf" is the Hunger that creeps into the daily life of those that lived post World War II and during the time of food rationing... the 'wolf' is a metaphor for hunger. 

YOUR VORACITY SERIES WAS BORN BECAUSE? The series came out of a desire to explore a more creative way of shooting. I've always loved shooting for magazines, but they have their own needs and direction, so I wanted to assign myself the kind of stories that would push me to the next level.  Almost like, I wanted to regain control of my own career by exploring some of my own ideas and own vision.  It has also pushed me on a technical level; finding new approaches to light and mood, which  has also helped me in my commercial work.

HOW DO YOU MAKE TIME FOR THIS? We produce these shoots just like any other shoot—mainly it depends on the availability of all the artists we call in to work on it.  It is always a big team and so the dates all have to line up.

WHAT WAS YOUR VISUAL INSPIRATION FOR THE WOLF SHOOT? I met with the stylists, Pamela Duncan Silver and Heidi Johannsen (one of the creative forces behind Bellocq Tea), and we talked a lot about that feeling of what it must have been like at home during the wartime. That feeling of longing and worry, it is a little darker.  So it is almost like a period piece, both in the sets and in the emotion. And MFK Fisher's book does have some of that darkness of feeling, but approaches it in such a rich way.  The way she wrote was so beautiful, that even in the most difficult times there was this light that just shined through.

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HOW TO SHOOT A WOLF:

Photographs: Anna Williams Prop Styling: Pamela Duncan Silver Food: Heidi Johannsen Art Direction: Mason Adams.

Anna's work can be seen here. To see the others in the Voracity Series click here.

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ANNA WILLIAMS: was born in Richmond, Virginia, and studied photography at the University of the South. After shooting for commercial clients all over the world, in 2010 Anna launched her project 'The Voracity,' an exploration of her personal vision. When she's not looking through the lens, she is racking up the frequent flier miles with her husband and 2 young kids, Novie and Hugo.

The best Ethiopian food you can get in New York, to go. (And it's Vegan.)

Ethiopia, March, 1981.

I keep thinking of how hard it must have been for Hiyaw's mother. Her husband had been busy, tirelessly doing agriculture work for the Emperor and then the New Regime, and teaching them how to grow crops, and find fertile land. The government, who had made note of this, didn't want him to help them, and so had promptly put his name on a death list.

When they realized they needed to escape, Hiyaw's mother, who was 9 months pregnant, and her husband walked for 17 days into the desert, out of Ethiopia and into Djibouti, where she would give birth to Hiyaw, in a tent, with only a camel as their witness.

The name Hiyaw, (pronounced Hee-Ohw) means immortal. (It's a heavy name to carry, Hiyaw has a tattoo, of his name etched permanently, immortally—if you want, on his left arm) but though he was born in Djibouti, Hiyaw ended up growing up in a Leftridge, Alberta, Canada, practically the only black person, and the only Ethiopian family in the neighborhood.

His dad, an interlectual, who was educated in Tel Aviv, tried to assimilate in the white suburbs of Canada. He drove a taxi; he sold vacuum cleaners. They worked hard and eventually got three restaurants in Toronto, but due to some bad luck, lost them, and then his mom, by herself, opened two more restaurants in Michigan, which are still going strong.

Hiyaw doesn't know if it was a conscious thing to start selling the food he grew up with, but he thinks it was more instinct, probably. The moment of clarity was sitting in his parents restaurant in Michigan and seeing his dad cooking, and his mom trying to convince him to stay in Michigan and run the business and him arguing with them and saying they should "just package the food and sell it like that", and when he went home that night, he couldn't get the idea out of his mind.

Each of the 5 dishes from his packaged food menu have a rich memory attached to them. The Yellow Split Pea dish, for instance, reminds him of a scenario that happened when he was a child. His mother and his aunts would pick over the lentils and at the same time chat about their husbands, and their kids. It was hard work, but it was a time he remembers fondly.

And Hiyaw's hard work has paid off; his packaged food has created buzz. He was highlighted in an article in Food and Wine magazine this last November, (Click here to see the article.) He was also approached by PBS to do a travel show within Africa, where he would go into the villages and see how the women are making their family's food. BET has also contacted him, to expand "Task Ethiopia" to feed more people, and expose people to African cuisine, and there are a bunch of other things in the works.

His next goal is to create fusions, but not fusions within different cultures, like French and African. Hiyaw wants to create food fusions within Africa. Fusing South, East, West and North African food. The hardest part about being the first one to do the Ethiopian food-to-go thing, is there are no footsteps to follow. Although there are models for other businesses, such as Indian or Japanese, there are none so far for Ethiopian. Because of this, Hiyaw is always thinking that he has to do a good job so the world gets to taste and eat what he grew up with, and loves. But he needn't worry. So far, his execution is flawless. Go out and pick up his food. It's wonderful.

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Taste of Ethiopia has currently 5 cuisines you can pick up in New York and eat at home: Misir (spicy red lentils), Kik (Yellow Split Peas), Gomen (Collard Greens), Yatikilt (cabbage and Carrots) Injera (Ethiopian Flat Bread)

Taste of Ethiopia products are available at Wholefoods , Fairway, Park Slope Food Coop, Westerly market, Union Market Brooklyn, Foragers City Grocer, Brooklyn Fare, and more.

And how do they taste? The food is restaurant grade, and it has such a depth of flavor, it's filling and also reasonably priced. I like to pick up the Misir (really spicy! red lentils), the Kik (Yellow Split Peas) and the Gomen (Collard Greens) and mix them together. Of course Ethiopian food gets obvious comparisons to Indian food because of the similar heat and spices, but this feels a less fatty, but still spicy version of an Indian take-away, and it's Vegan! I don't know of any other dishes of this calibre that you can pick up, sup on for a couple of days, and still feel really good about what you're eating. I even froze some leftovers and they re-heated up just fine.

 

To check out more about Chef and Owner Hiyaw Gebreyohannes Taste of Ethiopia, click here.

For those not in the New York area, who want to try Hiyaw's food, you can get a recipe for the Yatikilt (cabbage and Carrots), here. And a recipe for the Misir (spicy red lentils), here.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY BRYAN GARDNER

click here to see his work. 

Le Paddock

Le Paddock is a French Bistro and Tapas Wine Bar near the South end of Prospect Park. It's run by Sylvie Bertrand and Gregory Tetaud, who recognized the need in the Windsor Terrace neighborhood for a place that locals could go to to taste superior wine picks, and chow down on classic French Bistro food.

Roasted Whole Garlic, with Flat Bread, Devilled Eggs, and Beef Bourguignon are the highlights. (The later being a traditional family recipe that came from Greg's mom). The Wood-Burning Brick Oven keeps the place warm, ochre-lit and cosy and churns out all the french-style pizzas (the dough is crispy here, not chewy, like an Italian dough), that make up the Brick Oven Pizza Menu. My favorite is the Forrestiere, which is Wild Mushrooms, Pancetta, and Truffle Oil. My other favorite is the Harvest Pizza, that has Butternut Squash, Feta, shredded Brussels Sprouts, and Chili flakes on a home-made Fromage Blanc base. Both are divine. And while I'm yet to make my way down the entire Main Courses menu, locals swear by the Lamb Burger and love the French Onion Soup.

Sylvie and Greg's philosophy is to use less ingredients and dot them throughout the menu. The brussels sprouts for instance, make an appearance on the Small Bites list, in the form of Flash-Fried Brussels Sprouts with Hot Long Peppers and Lemon Aioli as well as on the Harvest Pizza. (Mentioned and photographed above).

The Le Paddock name (easy to understand in French as well as English) is a nod to the nearby stable of horses, that trot continuously around the South Lake Drive of Prospect Park. The restaurant has lots of charming but understated pony-and-rider type paraphernalia, with a giant ceramic horses head right above the bar. By train, bus or car, (the restaurant is right opposite the Ft Hamilton Parkway subway stop) locals flock to this place for a quiet drink on the way home or to hunker down for a night of comforting French dishes, delicious wines and friendly local banter.

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LE PADDOCK is located in Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn at 1235 Prospect Avenue at the corner of Reeve Place right off the Fort Hamilton stop on the F/G trains. Click here to go to their website. 

(Pics © Dimity Jones)

Apple-Picking (And 3 Recipes)

Picking apples, Upstate New York.

The beginnings of a Salted Caramel Apple Pie. (The pie would be a great addition to Thanksgiving.) 

We designed labels for the jars of Unsweetened Apple Sauce. (One for the front and and one for the back.) 

Apple Cider Sugar Donuts (and below), the jars of Unsweetened Apple Sauce are super-cute gifts for the Holidays. 

Nothing diminishes the inevitable blues of the closing of Summer like embracing the brisk coolness of Fall. So last weekend, we donned jackets with several layers and went apple picking. I'm not sure what kind of apples we picked, I just know we climbed a lot of ladders, and I did take a (big, brutal and hard!) apple to the head, but by the time we got home, we had collected a huge bushel of taunt, green, apples, along with remnants of cinnamon sugar, crunchy on our lips, from the farm-made apple cider donuts that the orchard sold, that we scoffed down on the car ride back.

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WHAT TO DO WITH THE APPLES? 3 RECIPES:

1 ) SALTED CARAMEL APPLE PIE The recipe is based on a recipe from Tyler Florence, but with three notes: 1) The caramel sauce also has a cup of red wine, which is really different and interesting. Try it! 2) the recipe doesn't call for salt, so I added a good pinch of salt to the caramel sauce, which gave it that great salty/sweet taste, and finally 3) the recipe says 'constantly stir' the caramel and I would advise not to stir. You need to let it sit, to set up, and only 'swirl' the pan occasionally. If you constantly stir the sugar and water mixture it will have a tough time converting to caramel. 

To get the base recipe click here. 

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2 ) APPLE CIDER DONUTS This recipe is from the lovely Deb over at Smitten Kitchen.

To get her recipe, click here. 

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3 ) UNSWEETENED APPLE SAUCE This makes about 5 or 6, 8 oz jars and wonderful to do on a Sunday afternoon, when the smell of simmering apples will premeate the house.

Core, but don't peel about 12 apples. (Apples other than Granny Smith's will make for a sweeter sauce) Place in a heavy base saucepan and gently simmer in a little bit of water, stirring occasionally until apples are soft, and skins start peeling off. When apples are mushy, add a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of salt. (You can add sugar to taste, but I did not add sugar, as the apples we picked were very sweet). Puree through a food mill which will make for a finer puree and separate the skins, and then pour into sterilized jars, (I boiled the empty jars with their lids, on a rolling boil for 14 mins) then poured the apple in, and then placed lids on while the apple puree was still hot, then I placed back in the water bath and continued to boil for another 14 minutes. Then let the jars cool. Lids should be flat, and not have the ability to pop up, then you will know they will be Ok to be stored. For basic tips for first time canners, click here.

TIP: Make up your own personalized labels and print them out, and glue them to cool jars. Give the jars to family members, teachers, friends, at Holiday or Christmas time. Getting Holiday gifts covered before the season starts? Now that feels really good. 

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(Pics Dimity Jones)

A (Pre-Hurricane) Fall Dinner, in the Country

Cheese, and Pickled Garlic Scapes

Tucked under the eve of the house, light fading, and amid swirling winds from the on-coming Hurricane, we set up our Fall feast.

Black Kale (Cavalo Nero) in Anchovy Sauce with Crunchy Breadcrumbs

Cheeses, Pickled Garlic Scapes, Cocoa Pears Chips, Whole Cracked Walnuts.

Dry-Brined Roast Chicken with Lemon, Garlic and Shallots

Scott Peacock's Classic Buttermilk Biscuits

Luscious Walnut Caramel Tart and (below) Rustic Apple Tart

Adopt the pace of nature: her secret is patience. ~Ralph Waldo Emerson

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The day before Hurricane Sandy, we all went up to the country, and we brought along gifts.

The countryside's haunting, unassuming beauty always surprises me, and while there is nothing wrong with the city, in the country I can breathe easier, there's a slower pace, and I can stop, take a moment, and not rush at all.

Kaitlyn Du Ross brought up a stack of beautiful linens, some knitted throws, and her squat, fawn-colored dishes, overflowed. Anna Helm Baxter and I drove up with the food. Her lemon-y, crunchy, roasted chicken was perfect, my sweet potato anna set the oven on fire.

I'd pickled some eggs, too, in ruby-red beet juice, and Anna had made us two pies; a tart, choc-full of walnuts buried deep in a hot caramel sauce and an apple pie, rustic-style, with a free-from dough.

I made biscuits using Scott Peacock's recipe from Kim Severson. The dough was flaky, light. The secret is stabbing it with a flour-dipped fork, repeatedly. Funnily enough that's what makes it rise. In my first batch, I didn't do it, and they were flat, and tough, like circular hockey pucks.

Photographer Justin Walker bought his camera and his axe, and proceeded to make light work of the boughs, and tree limbs that ended up in short stacked little logs. As the winds started to swirl, from the much-to-close Hurricane, Kaitlyn donned a wintery sweater, Justin pulled out a deck of cards and Anna emerged with her feast, and we hunkered down, to eat, almost holding our breaths, waiting for what surely was to come...

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→ A (PRE-HURRICANE) FALL DINNER MENU Cheeses, Pickled Garlic Scapes, Cocoa Pears Chips, Whole Cracked Walnuts. Dry-Brined Roast Chicken with Lemon, Garlic and Shallots Sweet Potato Anna with Port-Soaked Prunes Black Kale (Cavalo Nero) in Anchovy Sauce with Crunchy Breadcrumbs Scott Peacock's Classic Buttermilk Biscuits Rustic Apple Tart Walnut Caramel Tart.

→ RECIPES COCOA PEAR CRISPS From Rivka, at Food52.com, click here to get recipe

SWEET POTATOES ANNA WITH PORT-SOAKED PRUNES From MRSP, at Food52.com, click here to get recipe

SCOTT PEACOCK'S CLASSIC BUTTERMILK BISCUITS From Kim Severson, click here to get the recipe.

DRY-BRINED ROAST CHICKEN with LEMON, GARLIC & SHALLOTS An ingenious idea: "Dry-brining" gives the chicken maximum flavor. From Anna Helm Baxter

"The chicken I added kosher salt (maybe 4 TBSP) and rubbed all over placed in a ziplock for 24 hours. I then dry off the chicken with paper towel and rubbed with softenened butter all over. I re-seasoned, stuffed it with rosemary, thyme, lemon and garlic cloves cut in half through the equator and cooked at 425F for 1 hour, until golden and the juices run clear when a skewer pokes into the thigh."

WALNUT CARAMEL TART Originally from Mary Cadogan at BBC's Good Food, adapted by Anna Helm Baxter.

6oz plain flour 3oz butter, cut into small cubes 2oz caster sugar 1 egg yolk FOR THE FILLING 7oz caster sugar 4oz butter, cut into small pieces 7fl oz whipping cream 7oz shelled walnut halves

Heat oven to 375F. Put the flour in a food processor with the butter and sugar and mix until it forms fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and 1-2 Tbsp cold water and pulse to make a firm dough. Refrigerate for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Have ready a pie dish. Briefly knead the pastry on a lightly floured surface, then roll out to a round about 2 inches larger than your pie pan. Lift on to the pan with the help of your rolling pin, then press into the corners using your finger. Trim and shape dough. Chill for 30 minutes

Fill the pastry case with a round of parchment and baking beans. Blind-bake for 10 minutes, remove the paper and beans and bake for a further 5-10 minutes until the crust looks dry and is very slightly golden.

To make the filling, put the sugar in a large pan with 3 Tbsp cold water. Heat gently, stirring to dissolve the sugar. When the sugar is completely dissolved, increase heat and bubble until the syrup has turned a rich caramel color. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter until it has dissolved, then stir in the cream. Return to the heat and boil hard, stirring until the sauce is thick enough to leave a gap on the base of the pan when you draw your spoon across it. Stir in the walnuts.

Fill the pastry case with the nut mixture, leveling it with a fork. Return to the oven for 8-10 minutes until the filling is bubbling. Allow to cool.

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Photographs: Justin Walker Prop Styling: Kaitlyn Du Ross Food Stylng: Anna Helm Baxter (Art Direction: Dimity Jones)

House Smoked Bacon and Sweet Honey Nectarines.

Meat-eaters will clamour for Michael Symon's new cookbook, that hit bookstalls, last week. It contains 120 new recipes for beef, pork, poultry, lamb, goat and game, and luckily Michael doesn't shy away from the unpopular bits either, (the book contains great ideas for veal hearts, sweetbreads and tripe). His house bacon, though, caught my eye, as I've always wanted to try making my own bacon at home. Due to my kind and generous friends over at Random House Publishing, (thanks Emily! Thanks Allison!) they agreed to part with the recipe for Michael's House Bacon from the newly released book for my blog, (you lucky readers and subscribers!) together with the Honey Nectarines recipe, which I think would be a great side-dish to any of the meat recipes in his new cookbook. Enjoy!

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HOUSE BACON From Michael Symon's new cookbook "Carnivore" Michael says Bacon is like a good pair of Levi's; it's never goes out of style. He also says by mixing and matching your own favorite herbs and spices you can customize this recipe to suit your own tastes. To get other recipes, or to order the book, click here. 

3 tablespoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon pink curing salt 11⁄2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar 6 pounds fresh pork belly

1) Mix the kosher salt, pink curing salt, and brown sugar. Thoroughly coat the pork belly with this mixture, making sure to use it all. Put the belly on a rimmed baking sheet and cover it with a piece of parchment paper. Put another baking sheet on top of the belly and weight it down with a few heavy cans or plates. Put it in the refrigerator to cure for 7 days.

2) Rinse the pork belly in cold water and put it on a baking sheet lined with a rack. Refrigerate the belly, uncovered, overnight to dry it out a bit.

3) Prepare and set a smoker to 200°F. Using apple-wood chips, smoke the pork belly for 1 hour. Continue cooking the belly in the smoker, without smoke, until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F, about 3 hours.

4) When the bacon is done, remove it from the smoker and refrigerate for several hours. It will keep for 1 week in the refrigerator or up to 2 months in the freezer.

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HONEY NECTARINES From Michael Symon's new cookbook "Carnivore" Michael says this is great with grilled meats, but also great spooned over vanilla bean ice-cream. To get other recipes, or to order the book, click here. 

3⁄4 cup dry rose or white wine Juice of 3 limes 1⁄4 cup honey 1 shallot, minced 12 nectarines, pitted and quartered 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint 3 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted

1) Bring the wine, lime juice, honey, and shallot to a simmer in a small non-reactive saucepan over medium heat. Add the nectarines and cook until the mixture is syrupy, about 20 minutes.

2) Gently stir in the mint and pine nuts. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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Photographs by Jennifer May To order Michael Symon's new coobook, "Carnivore", click here. 

Butternut Squash Glazed Tart

An inventive lighter twist on the standard dense pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving: Everyone worked so super hard on the November Issue of Food and Wine magazine, (which is still on newsstands now, so go pick it up!) and as I'm deciding what to cook for Thanksgiving, this is one dish I'm definitely going to make.

The tart is a crispy, sweet, light version of dessert. Something to replace the heavy, dense, regular pumpkin pie, that by the end of thanksgiving, is hard to even make room for. This elegant puff pastry is quick to make. You’ll be surprised at how delicious butternut squash is for dessert. Look for a squash with a long neck.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH GLAZED TART From Food and Wine magazine, November 2012. By Grace Parisi. Click here to get the original recipe. 

• ACTIVE: 45 MIN
• TOTAL TIME: 2 HRS
• SERVINGS: 8

One 1-pound neck of butternut squash—peeled, halved lengthwise and sliced 1/4 inch thick 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 2 tablespoons sugar 8 ounces all-butter puff pastry, chilled 4 ounces cream cheese, softened 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons apricot preserves, melted 2 tablespoons chopped toasted pecans

1) Preheat the oven to 375°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and butter the paper. Brush the squash with the melted butter and sprinkle with 1 1/2 tablespoons of the sugar. Roast for about 45 minutes, flipping the squash slices halfway through, or until softened. Let cool.

2) Meanwhile, roll out the pastry to a 14-by-6-inch rectangle and transfer it to a parchment paper–lined baking sheet. Prick the pastry all over with a fork and refrigerate until firm, about 5 minutes. Top with another sheet of parchment paper and a flat cookie sheet and bake for about 30 minutes, until the pastry is lightly golden on the bottom but not set. Remove the top cookie sheet and parchment and bake for 10 minutes longer, until the pastry is golden and crisp. Let cool.

3) Blend the cream cheese with the cinnamon and the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of sugar and spread it on the pastry. Arrange the squash slices on top. Brush with the apricot preserves and sprinkle with pecans. Cut into slices and serve.

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Photograph for Food and Wine, by Christina Holmes Food Styling by Simon Andrews Prop Styling by Kristine Trevino

Books I recommend: Jose Garces "The Latin Road Home"

Cookbooks pile up around my room, were they wafers, taunt and crackling, there would be enough to feed several large extended families.

Some of the books are solid, heavy, and affirming. Some are paperbacks, flimsy with pages lost. "Curl up with a good book" has long been my ointment, my medicine cabinet cure-all, for life's daily maladies, like the departing of seasons, endless thumping rain, a dark grey Sunday. The feel of the paper, the weight of the book, the photos. Nothing destroys the crush for a new beau more than finding out he owns a Kindle.

Chef/restauranteur Jose Garces has a new cookbook, The Latin Road Home and it's on the top of my book pile right now. Part food tour, part memoir, it's informative, but accessible, and it reads like a travelogue with recipes. The more you read, the more you can't put it down. I took it home on the subway, and by East Broadway, I had 3 strangers asking me what was the book, where could they get it, and the man in front of me who was carrying 2 lbs of shrimp asked me if I could give him a recipe from the book, for something he could possibly make at home that very night. (Shrimp Ceviche!)

The book centers around 5 Latin food cultures that influenced the course of Chef Jose's life, and these 5 countries make up the chapters: Equador, his ancestral home. (While Jose was raised in North-West Chicago, his parents were both born in Equador). The second chapter is Spain, where he worked, then Cuba, where his wife is from, and finally Mexico and Peru, that was the inspiration for some of his restaurants.

Each of these chapters offers 4 complete dinner menus. Some of the dishes included in the book are...

Equador: Equdorian Hot Sauce, Fried Pork, Avocado Salad, and Figs in Honey Syrup with Goats Cheese. Spain: Almond Gazpacho with Smoked Trout, Saffron Aioli, Canapes with Duck Confit and Serrano Ham. Cuba: Lobster in Spicy Tomato Sauce, Fried Stuffed Chiles, Guava and Cream Cheese turnovers. Mexico: Spicy Margarita, Octopus ceviché with Avocado, Chipotle Chicken Nachos. Peru: Red Chile Butter, Rosemary Mint Chimichurri, stewed Duck with Potatoes Peas and Chiles, Peruvian Doughnuts.

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Jose's book is beautifully shot by photographer Jason Varney and prop styled by Heather Chontos.

Jason got to travel to Ecuador with Jose and his wife and children. They spent the first few days shooting in the Quito markets, and Jose reunited with many of his family members at a dinner he hosted in Quito, where Jason had the pleasure of shooting portraits of Jose's family tree. Next they traveled a few hours into the Andes and stayed at an eco-touism site called Hacienda Zuleta (on the book's cover). They shot all the recipes a few weeks later at Jose's Cira Centre restaurant JG Domestic while it was still under construction, they set up a make-shift studio and shot the nearly 100 recipe/process images over 8 days. In terms of propping, Heather decided to keep the palette muted but introducing pops of Latin colors- aquas, pinks, yellows. She hand-painted surfaces, and hand-tore linens. They wanted things to feel distressed and rustic to play up the history and rustic vibe of the food. The wrinkles in the fabric were important, they felt it gave a texture and movement that was needed to convey the rustic Latin feel.

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CUBAN SANDWICH (CUBANO) (Pictured above, second from top). Recipe courtesy of Jose Garces, from his new cookbook "The Latin Road Home". Cooking Note: To approximate the Cubano at home, follow the recipe to make the absolute key ingredient: the marinated, moist, and deeply flavorful roast pork. Note: plan for several hours of marinating time; you'll end up with enough pork for a second round of sandwiches or the main component of another meal. Makes 4 sandwiches. 

ROAST PORK 2 tablespoons  + 1 tablespoon of Kosher Salt 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar 1 tablespoon of ground mustard 2 lb boneless pork shoulder, tied in an even roll 1/2 cup of Dijon Mustard 1 teaspoon of Ground Mace 2 tablespoons freshly ground Pepper 1 tablespoon Spanish Smoked Sweet Paprika

SANDWICH 4 (6-inch) light crisp-crusted bakery rolls 2 tablespoons of Dijon Mustard 3/4 lb best quality domestic Ham (unglazed), thinly sliced 1/4 lb Swisss or Gruyere Cheese, thinly sliced 1 large Dill Pickle, thinly sliced lengthwise 2 tablespoons of Unsalted Butter

TO CURE THE PORK: Combine 2 tablespoons of the salt with the sugar and ground mustard. Rub the mixture all over the meat, cover, and set it in the refrigerator to cure for 6 hours. Place a rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

TO ROAST THE PORK: Rinse it under cold running water to remove the seasoning. Pat dry with paper towels. Combine the Dijon mustard, mace, black pepper, paprika, and the remaining 1 tablespoon of salt. Rub the mixture all over the meat. Set the pork in a roasting pan, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and roast in center rack at 325 degrees. Cook until the internal temperature reaches 175 degrees, about 45 minutes. Allow the meat to cool completely before slicing.

TO MAKE THE SANDWICHES: Neat a sandwich press or griddle to medium-high. Split the bread lengthwise and pull it open. Spread the mustard on 1 side of each roll and layer on the roast pork, ham, cheese, and pickles. Spread the butter all over the outside of the sandwiches and griddle until the cheese is melted and the meats are warmed through, 3 to 4 minutes. (Alternatively, wrap the sandwich in foil and toast in a 350 degree oven for 5 to 7 minutes.) Slice each in half on the diagonal and serve.

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To purchase the book, Jose Garces The Latin Road Home: Savoring the foods of Equador, Mexico and Peru, click here.

To read the NPR interview where Garces discusses his latest cookbook. Click here.

Photos from top: Chiles for his recipe for Equadorian Hot Sauce, Cuban Sandwich (Cubano), Spanish Octopus with Potato Confit, (Bottom) Chef Jose Garces eating a Warm Hominy Salad.

Note about my blog: Did you know there are more pictures that are showing on this post? To see entire galley, click on one picture and it will take you to the galley. From there you can keep tapping on the photo to work your way through the galley.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY JASON VARNEY: Jason is a food & travel photographer that grew up in the woods, but now calls The City of Brotherly Love home. When he's not taming his Welsh Terrier pup, Jase appreciates stiff drinks & long exposures. He is based in New York, and Philadelphia. Check out his work here. And his blog here.

STYLED BY HEATHER CHONTOS: Heather is an artist, prop stylist and wannabe cowgirl, who lives in Bozeman, Montana with her two daughters, a giant St. Bernard, four chickens, and three ducks. Heather travels between both coasts for work, but when at home, hosts big dinner parties in Bozeman where they draw all over the table together and make crazy art whilst eating. Heather now works mainly through her little design consultancy Milk Farm Road. Check out her work here. And her blog here. 

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Wood-Smoked Turkey (Josh Vogel)

This story was a joy to design. It appears in the current November, Thanksgiving Issue of Food and Wine magazine, on newsstands now. I also got the opportunity to taste the Wood-Smoked Turkey, (from Josh Vogel, above) which the F&W kitchen tested one lunch time, and it was wonderful. It's flavorful and moist, the smoking makes the skin a beautiful, inky black, and not your usual crispy blonde skin. This turkey is dark and mahogany in color, and has a rich smokey taste.

Josh Vogel, is a woodworker in upstate NY, who with his partner Kelly Zaneto, has a holistic or 'nose-to-tail' approach to his timber. He makes large sculptures, then cooking utensils with the leftovers, and then with the scraps from these, he fuels his outdoor oven. Nothing goes to waste. His cutting boards as well as his spoons, have no glue and no joints, their just single pieces of wood.

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To get the recipe for Wood-Smoked Turkey which would be a wonderful option for Thanksgiving, check out the recipe at Food and Wine.com here.

To purchase Josh Vogel's hand made wooden products, which include wooden boards, cutting board oils, spoons and cooking utensils, click here. 

Race to the newsstand and pick up this November Thanksgiving Issue of Food and Wine magazine right now. To subscribe, click here.

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Photographs for Food and Wine magazine by Fredrika Stjärne Styling Alison Attenborough Original text that appears in the magazine, Daniel Gritzer.

Charlene's Spicy Ketchup

A few Summers ago, Charlene Benson found herself up in a log cabin in Big Indian with two 6-year-olds, and one of them wouldn't stop talking.

It was raining, and didn't look like it was going to stop anytime soon. She had a few jam jars, but not many, and a large bushel of tomatoes that she had rash-purchased at the market.

Ketchup would be something she could make that would require a lot of reduction. Which would work with the scant few jars she had, and give the kids an activity, besides, she reasoned, there was something very satisfying about a big pot of warm tomatoes simmering on a stove.

Charlene is one of my mentors, a creative tour-de-force; (a slayer of visual dragons!) She was the first person to hire me on magazines in the US (Yes, you can blame her!) and now she also grows vegetables from her wondrous garden in Williamsburg. Shiny purple eggplants and taut, irregular heirlooms. Figs, Peppers and the odd Peach. The tomatoes she uses in her ketchup are Plum, and San Marzano. "The San Marzano," Charlene says... Are frankly horrible eaten raw, but great in my sauce."

Last Saturday, Charlene, her husband Brant, and I got together with the Andrea Gentl and Marty Hyers (from the photo duo; Gentl and Hyers) to shoot for the day. Despite warnings of a tornado, some ultimately heavy downpours... the sun, and the ketchup—came out wonderfully fine.

Here is her recipe.

CHARLENE'S SPICY KETCHUP Charlene's doesn't use exact measurements. If the sauce needs more sweetener, she'll add more maple syrup, if it's not spicy enough, she'll add another pepper. Note: The spiciness will mellow out in time (as it's stored) with the influence of the vinegar. You need to taste frequently though, to get it to where the taste works best for you.

Take 35 Plum, Roma or San Marzano tomatoes. Cut in half and de-seed into a sieve, draining the juice into a bowl. Place cut tomatoes face down on an ungreased cookie sheet, with 12 whole Cayenne Peppers, (or other small hot peppers), a peeled whole head of Garlic and a loose handful of Basil and Oregano leaves (fresh only). Roast in a convection oven at 400 degrees for 25 minutes, or a regular oven at 425 for 30 minutes or until the skins puff up and turn black. (See picture.) While the tomatoes are roasting, cut up 4 Onions (can be white, red, or standard brown, whatever you have), 4 Red Bell Peppers (Capsicum) 2 Poblano Chilli's and 4 cloves of Garlic, into inch size pieces. (This should come to about 7 cups in total).  Place in a large heavy based pot or dutch oven on the stove top. Add 5 cups of Distilled White Pickling Vinegar, 5 Clove sprigs, 1 Bay Leaf, 1 tablespoon of Mustard Seed, 1 tablespoon of Celery Seed, 2 tablespoons of Salt, 1 teaspoon of White Pepper, large grind of Black Pepper. Stir, and put on Medium heat to gently warm. When tomatoes are done roasting, remove from oven and gently with tongs, peel the skins off the tomatoes. Put the entire contents of the cookie sheets into the pot. Bring entire mixture to the boil, reduce untill you have a soft rolling boil, and leave for 2 and a half hours, or until the contents of the pot have been reduced by half. Add 1 cup of Raisins, and 1 cup of Maple Syrup. Taste. Add seasoning or more sweetener, or more spicy pepper if you desire. Use an immersion blender to puree. Simmer another 2 more hours. The sauce will be a very dark red. Pour into 8 oz jars. Process according to canning directions. (See link in 'Notes' below). Makes 12 x 8oz jars of ketchup.

Notes: You can use the tomato 'juice' from the de-seeded tomatoes later to water the ketchup down, if you so desire, or, put it in a Bloody Mary. When she was a child in Pennsylvania, Charlene and her brothers used to fight over who would get to drink the tomato juice first. Charlene uses Cayenne and Poblano Peppers because that's what she has in her garden, but you could use Banana Peppers, Scotch Bonnets, Jalapeno, even, whatever you have. For the roasting of the tomatoes, we used a total of 3 cookie sheets for this recipe. For standard info on canning, click here.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: GENTL & HYERS: So thrilled and flattered to have Andrea Gentl and Marty Hyers shoot for my blog. True masters in the craft of photography (and great people to hang out with too!). Saturday was an incredible day, blistering sun one minute, torrential rain the next, one of those pinch-me moments you have where you just realize you're so lucky to know such incredible people, and be able to contribute (even just a tiny bit) to creating something beautiful, with something so simple as the humble tomato. Thanks so much Marty and Andrea!

To check out their work, click here. To check out Andrea's blog "Hungry Ghost Food and Travel", click here. Concept, Art Direction & text: Dimity Jones.

Much love and thanks to Charlene and Brant x

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Captions: 1) Charlene in her Williamsburg, Brooklyn garden, 2) A mix of Peppers, Onions, Garlic and Plum Tomatoes, 3) Charlene collecting Tomatoes and Peppers, 4) Tomatoes are sliced in half, de-seeded and placed face down on a cookie sheet with Cayenne Peppers, Garlic and fresh Basil and Oregano 5) The kitchen 6) Garlic, Basil and Tomato 7) Fresh out of the oven 8) Pulling the skins off, the skins, the tomato juice. 9) Charlene and Brant's storage pantry; which contains Figs in syrup, Fig vinegar, Peaches in Lemon Honey syrup, pickled Cucumbers, 9, 10, 11) A Sunnyside-up Egg fried in Goose Fat (runny in the middle, and crispy on the edges) with Polish Rye Bread, Unsalted Butter, fresh Oregano leaves and the Spicy Ketchup.

Three to One: Basil Pesto

THREE TO ONE: A lot of people ask me why I called my blog "Three to One". It was based on the idea that there are a lot of recipes on the web and that if you search something simple, like 'chocolate cake', for instance, you'll get a barrage of well meaning and possibly amazing ideas, but how do you know which is the best? How do you know which one will taste great? And which one do you try without wasting money and time on ingredients and cooking? What if someone were to test and take all of those, and reduce them down to just one? Since it seemed (to me) recipes seemed to take usually three different tacts. I wanted to create a site that was taking the three tacts, and reducing them to one. Thus was born, Three to One... 

THE BEST FOOLPROOF BASIL PESTO My garden has 3 plants of Basil that I've attempted to keep alive this past Summer. (Try as I might, I'm not a great gardener!) But now is the time to make pesto, so I stripped most of them down, took off the leaves and brought them inside. After research and testing a bunch of recipes from the web, I've found the basic, fool proof, no-fuss, Basic Pesto recipe combination. (And it takes just 5 minutes!) Shift it up as you will... add fresh Mint leaves, Lemon zest or Lemon juice, or even crushed Red Pepper, for instance. 

The basic pesto breakdown is this: 

2 cups of loosely packed fresh Basil leaves. 2 medium cloves of Garlic. 1 quarter cup of barely toasted (so they are creamy not nutty or bronzed) pine nuts. 1 half cup of finely grated good Parmigiano Reggiano. 2/3 of a cup of Extra Virgin Olive Oil. One very big pinch of Kosher Salt. A grind of freshly ground Pepper.

Put in a food processor. Blend.

Place in fridge to eat in the upcoming week or freeze in portion sized containers. Pour over pasta in the dead of Winter to remind you of Summer. A lot of cooks suggested not putting in the Parmesan in before freezing, but my time is limited and I want to be able to just take it out of the freezer, heat it, and just pour it over pasta and serve. (Who knows if I'll even have good Parmesan in the house to add when I take it out of the freezer?)

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(Photo Dimity Jones)

Nosa Ria Spanish Market. A New store, San Francisco.

Nosa Ria Spanish Market

The journey began on foot. A 110 kilometer walking trip on the Camino del Santiago solidified a life-long love of all things Spanish. Manuel, a native of Galicia, Spain and Krista, an American, both realized on that trip that they were ready for change in their lives, and that change was to be Nosa Ria, a newly opened Spanish market in San Francisco’s Hayes Valley neighborhood.

The couple wanted their store to be more than a purveyor of goods, “we wanted it to be about hospitality, and educating people about Spanish products,” says Krista. Generous samples of cheese are offered; a picture of black-footed Iberian pigs (the source of jamón Ibérico) is displayed on the counter. And the couple is happy to dole out advice on everything from Spanish recipes to advice on where to visit in Spain. “We see ourselves as ambassadors for all things Spanish,” says Krista.

The shop is relatively small, but well stocked with everything from the finest 5J (Cinco Jotas) jamón Iberico (carved off the leg) to Cola Cao, a chocolate drink that Manuel assures me all kids grow up drinking in Spain. In the Spanish tradition of canned gourmet seafood, they offer mejillones en escabeche (marinated mussels), sardinillas (tiny tender sardines), and pulpo (the octopus that is Nosa Ria’s logo).

Located on a heavily trafficked corner of Hayes Valley, the shop manages to feel intimate and homey. Manuel laughs, “My friend came in and said, 'you’re just doing exactly what you do at home.' This doesn’t feel like work to us, it makes us happy to share the things that we love.”

Nosa Ria. 500 Laguna (corner of Fell), San Francisco Open Tuesday-Saturday 11-7; Sunday 11-5.

Nosa Ria is one of the only places in SF that sells authentic products imported from Spain. To check it out, and get directions to the store, click here: www.nosaria.com

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Text and research Samantha Jones Photographs by Colin Clark. To check out Colin's work, click here.

Summer Series (Vol. 4) New York

THE SUMMER SERIES. What some of my favorite people saw, ate, and photographed, this past Summer…

The fourth (and final) volume: “NEW YORK” From RANDY HARRIS 

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I met photographer Randy Harris in New Hampshire last year, when we were both on assignment to shoot a bunch of gi-normous pumpkins for Martha Stewart Living. He called me at the beginning of August to tip me off that he’d been asked by Chef Heather Carlucci (from Print Restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen, NY) to shoot the second “Pig Mountain” Festival. Randy is a phenomenal photographer. I'm so thrilled and privileged to present this volume.

What is "Pig Mountain"?  It is a pig roast and veggie festival to bring economic stimulation to the Sullivan County in New York and support the local farmers. Ten chefs (Yes, 10!) and their sous chefs, came together to cook for three days. They dug pits, roasted and smoked pigs, and prepped side dishes. Each chef prepared their pig however they wanted, and they also got the opportunity to offer 3-4 vegetarian side dishes, to go with their pork dish. For some, it was the first time that they'd ever worked with these other chefs before, so it was a great opportunity to meet and work closely with industry colleagues and get the opportunity to exchange ideas.

Mildred’s Lane, J. Morgan Puitt’s artist retreat was offered up as a location to house the chefs. (This place is a wonderful, inspiring retreat.) And then between 850 and 1000 people attended the pig event. A mixture of locals, homeowners in the region, and lots of food lovers. The month before, Heather spoke about this event on Martha Stewart Radio and was surprised to find a lot of people came to the event after hearing her speak.

There were a lot of people involved in putting this together. (It takes a village after all!) Most of the location work was done by Heather’s Pig Mountain partner in crime: Matthew, who built the pits, and then there were about 30 other people worked super-hard to make this happen, including Print Restaurant who donated cooks as well as funds. The pigs came from Stone and Thistle and Finger Lakes farms and were mainly cooked in the pits. Two were done in the smoker. The pits took about 24+ hours of cooking before unearthing. The smoker took about 6 hours.

THE PHENMONENAL MENU:

Jake Klein, Morrell Wine Bar Balinese whole roasted pig with creamy coconut casava and pineapple achar

Anthony Sasso, Casa Mono Old San Juan Style Pork Two salsas: cuba libre reduction and red habanero vinegar Tostones Bravas with Smoked Tomato Vin Habichuelas Grilled Beans with homemade Harissa

Lee Anne Wong, Foodnetwork Mi-so Happy Pig, Wasabi Aioli, Crispy Onions Charcoal grilled Eggplant and Daikon, Goma Sesame Sauce, Scallions, Chili Watermelon, Cucumber, Asian Pear Salad, Yuzu Vinaigrette, Shiso, Masago arare

George McKirdy, Astor Bake Shop Caribbean Roast Pork, Pigeon Peas with Green Banana Dumplings, Yuca con Mojo, Peach Pineapple Salsa

Peter Schott, the Inn at Woodloch Pecan smoked whole hog sausage BBQ potato salad Vinegar slaw Braised Collard and Kale Greens Pickles and chive biscuits

Ryan Tate, All Good Things Pork belly Tostadas with pickled Gooseberries, roasted Radishes and Lime Creme Fraiche Grilled corn on the cob with Sesame Chipotle Aioli Black Eyed Pea Salad, lemon-sumac dressing Grilled puntarelle with pit roasted sweet onions

Heather Carlucci, Print Restaurant. Tandoori Roast Pig with roasted carrot raita, tomato chutney, Marieke Fenugreek Gouda and Pig Roasted Onions on Sullivan Street Ciabatta

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY RANDY HARRIS: Randy is a New York based photographer. He grew up in Leominster, MA, the birthplace of Johhny Appleseed. Randy worked for his dad as a Tool and Die maker. He loves to work with his hands and is not afraid to get dirty. His enthusium is endless. His clients include New York Times, New York magazine, Vanity Fair and Bon Appétit. Check out his work here. 

HEATHER CARLUCCI: is the pastry chef emeritus at Print Restaurant in New York's Hell's Kitchen. Heather opened Lassi, a phenomenally popular Indian take-out place in the West Village but due a lowly landlord, had to close. She is currently negotiating to re-open it. In her down time she listens to vinyl and hangs out with her daughter. To read more, check out her blog, here. To check out Print Restaurant click here.  ---------------

This is the last of the Summer Series!

To see previous Vol. 1 Colorado, click here. Vol. 2. California, click here Vol. 3. Michigan, click here. 

Thank you to everyone who contributed! Amazing Summer!

The Summer Series (Vol. 3) Michigan

Venison Jerky

Venison Backstrap Steak, Autumn Crumb and Vegetables

Venison Burger

Venison with Brussels Sprouts Mayo, with a squeeze of Lemon, and below; Venison Neck and Wild Mushroom Stroganoff

THE SUMMER SERIES. What some of my favorite people saw, ate, and photographed, this past Summer…

The Third Volume “MICHIGAN” From Christina Holmes & Craig Lieckfelt

THE SUMMER VENISON MENU FROM MICHIGAN

Christina Holmes was born and raised in Michigan in a small town called Eaton Rapids. Think population 5,000, rolling hills, farmland. Growing up, there was always a sense of eating off the land, growing your own fruit and veggies, sourcing your own meat, and also being responsible for how you treated the land and soil.

This past Summer, to pay homage to the state she was raised, Christina teamed up with chef/food stylist Craig Lieckfelt, (also a Michigan native), to create a menu that puts a contemporary spin on foods they love and grew up with.

WHY A VENISON MENU?

From Christina: "Venison is a staple game meat in Michigan. The hunting season starts in late September (for restricted hunting) ...and goes right through to the first of January. My father hunted for deer most of Autumn, and I remember in Winter spending hours watching him carefully clean out his rifles in our barn. My mother played a huge role in deciding how to prep the venison, coming up with different dishes, and then suddenly, (depending on the size of the freezer, and what we had caught) we would only be eating venison, no other meat."

From Craig: "I'm a fourth generation hunter, and my family has land in Northern Michigan strictly reserved for hunting. The cabin is free of electricity and running water. In fact I helped my father built the current cabin we are using. It is a right of passage for the men of my family (and women, if they choose). I could write a book on memories of deer hunting. I saw my first deer field butchered when I was 6."

THEIR MENU: Venison Jerky Venison Backstrap Steak, Autumn Crumb and Vegetables Venison Burger Venison with Brussels Sprouts Mayo, with a squeeze of Lemon Venison Neck and Wild Mushroom Stroganoff

------------ THE VENISON BURGER 1 pound of Venison Half a pound of Beef Shortrib (boneless) 4 oz of Pork Fat 1 tablespoon of Kosher Salt 1 tablespoon of Black Pepper

Method: Grind all together through the course setting, mix thoroughly but gently. Then portion the meat mixture into 5 and a half oz portions, lay on a sheet tray in one even layer and chill for one hour. Season each patty with Kosher Salt and freshly ground Pepper. Heat 2 oz of Grapeseed Oil in a cast iron pan until it starts to smoke, cook until a nice crust forms. Around 3 minutes, flip and top with slices of cheese. Cook for 3 minutes longer. Serve Medium for optimum juiciness. Serve with a slice of ripe tomato, watercress, pickled red onion, brussels sprout mayo, and a toasted potato bun for gastronomic ectsasy.

VENISON JERKY 4 pounds of top Sirloin, Rump or Eye round Half a cup of Soy Sauce Quarter cup of Honey Quarter cup of Brown Sugar Quarter cup of Maple Syrup Quarter cup of Worcestershire Sauce Quarter cup of Hoisin Sauce 1 tablespoon of Apple Cider Vinegar 2 tablespoons of minced Garlic (minced to a paste) 3 tablespoons of Kosher Salt 1 tablespoon of Red Pepper Flakes 1 tablespoon of Black Pepper 2 teaspoons of Cayenne Pepper

Method: Trim the meat of all fat and connective tissue and then slice the venison thinly against the grain. Gently pound the meat to achieve quarter inch thickness. Combine rest of ingredients in pot, until sugar and salts dissolve. Cool completely. Add sliced meat to marinade and refridgerate for up to 24 hours. Place in a smoker, be careful not to overlap at any point and smoke at 175-200 degrees for 12 to 16 hours. Before eating, feel free to dust with some honey and pink peppercorns. 

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Photographs by Christina Holmes Food Recipes & Styling courtesy of Craig Lieckfelt Check out their story (also on Michigan) in the new Fall Issue of Sweet Paul here.  Craig is also involved with a Detroit Michigan Pop up called Guns and Butter, check it out here. 

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CHRISTINA HOLMES: is a New York based photographer with deep roots in Michigan. When it comes to her favorite foods, her list is long! She will eat anything from Il Buco restaurant, she covets the Mushroom & Egg pizza from ABC Kitchen, loves the pork belly at the Breslin, the olive oil gelato at Otto, the olive oil cake from Abraco, the chocolate chip cookies from City Bakery, and any dessert from Lady M! Her favorite memory this past Summer was showing her parents around NY, getting to eat great food, and watching a live Brooklyn old school jazz band at dusk on the Hudson River. Her clients include Food & Wine, Bon Appetit, Whole Living, The Cooking Channel, Sweet Paul, Chop't. Check out her work here. 

CRAIG LIECKFELT: is a chef and food stylist that has professionally cooked in Gotham Bar and Grill, and Jean Georges at the Trump International Hotel in New York. In the food world he is inspired by creativity, boldness and individualism. He sites Blanca, (the Roberta compound in Bushwick, Brooklyn) as being the perfect example of this. Craig's standard breakfast is a Banana Cupcake with Maple Pecan frosting and coffee, and he would walk over hot coals for a Detroit Coney Dog. He is currently launching a pop up restaurant in Detroit, called Guns and Butter. Check out his work here. 

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Stay tuned for more installments from the Summer Series!

To see previous Vol. 1 Colorado, click here. and Vol. 2. California, click here